The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.
Here’s an excerpt:
A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 3,000 times in 2011. If it were a cable car, it would take about 50 trips to carry that many people.
Well, after 148 posts and 1241 photos, I have reached the limit of my 3GB free blog space. I can add another 3Gb for $20 pa, which is fine considering the amount I’ve had for free. However, WordPress can be infuriating, especially with photos, and it doesn’t do video without an expensive upgrade, so time seemed ripe for a bit of a market survey.
To be honest, the only other big kid on the block is Google’s Blogger. This offers ‘unlimited free space’. Actually it isn’t because photos are stored on your Picassa web album account and this has a limit above which you pay. However, I use Picassa extensively, it allows me to do video and it seemed to be worth a go.
So, dear reader, to see the next part of my published oddessey, please head to andyrawlins.blogspot.com where day 19 is waiting for you. I have managed to find a theme not dissimilar to this one. Its not as nice, but it is customisable so I’ll try to pretty it up as time allows.
Let me know what you think. If it doesn’t work out. I’ll give WordPress what they deserve and return here. My previous posts won’t go away from this site.
My room in Jerry's Motel LA
Up about 10. Feel a little rough. Have juice and book in for another night. Get ready for the day. I have the remaining pizza that Mrs Jerry gave me and leave about 11:15 for Laurel Canyon (spiritual home of much of the 60/70s rock scene that I love so much) and Zappa’s house. Mick gave me the address but there is a gap in the house numbering and I can’t find it. Its lovely and quiet in these small roads up in the hills and its a great little drive.
I carry on down Woodrow Wilson Drive onto Mulholland Drive and drive a bit to a look-out stop in Laurel Canyon. I then head back the other way. I miss a turn and the Tom Tom takes me way up a tiny little road above the valley/main road where there are some great views.
Then I re-programme the Tom Tom for the Griffith Observatory, about 10 miles away. This public observatory on the hill along from the Hollywood sign (I saw it on my Hollywood tour a few weeks back and was told it was a good place to go) is an imposing building featured in such films as Charlie’s Angels 2, the Terminator and Rebel without a Cause. The trip takes me to the end of Hollywood Blvd by the statue thing and then a diversion takes me past the end of Orchid st, where my first hotel, the Hollywood Orchid Suites, is 🙂
Long spindly palms are what remind me of LA. I love them. And they remind me of the Eagles. I think I had Hotel California on when I took this.
Heading up the hill to the observatory, I spot a place to park on the road and wander up from there.
The Griffith Observatory
I go first to get a much needed coffee and drink it reading/planning tomorrow’s trip. Then wander round the building which is great. It has been beautifully restored at obviously great expense. You can gawp at its 12″ refractor through a glass screen. This is apparently the most viewed-through telescope in the world – they opened it up to the Public for Halleys Comet or somesuch.
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The 12" refractor
Downtown LA from the Observatory
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See, I was really there. With my hat on.
Into the building and there are loads of well made displays about astronomy, though little about the observatory. I was hoping for something more technical but it is very well done, to be fair. There are three live views of the sun taken via a feed from one of the telescopes on the roof: visible, H alpha and spectrum which are quite interesting. I was hoping to listen to a Leonard Nimoy film they have but they are every hour and I’ve just missed one.
I’m getting tired and a bit weak now so back to the car and eat the rest of yesterdays bagel and salad. Then to my next venue, the Getty Centre.
Again its only 10 ml or so but takes quite a while due to traffic. Much of it is on the freeway. At one point someone pulls straight out in front of me and I have to skid to a stop. This is the second time this has happened today and not I’m happy.
My guidebook said the museum was free which it is – however, car parking is $15. Its a 7 level underground carpark and it takes a while for me to filter down to level 5 to park. The Americans are so orderly: they fill up every space before starting the next level. I would have just gone down until it got empty. Then up in the lift and get the shuttle up the hill to the centre. Its a little train that rides 3/4ml at 10mph on a cushion of air and is pulled by a cable. It all seems rather unnecessary other than a display of conspicuous ostentation, though in the guide leaflet the architect talks about it being ‘…designed to give the visitor the feeling of being elevated out of their day-to day experience’. Oookaaaay.
Th tramway and centre on the hill
The ride is 4 mins and then to the centre proper. Its a huge complex of white stone and hoards of staff showing you where to go. Through the main entrance and get a coffee and have a much needed sit down while I look at the guide. There are basically four interlinked buildings sort of in a rectangle round the main courtyard. getty_center_map Click the link. Click it goddamit!
Though the buildings themselves are not that attractive, everything is dressed in the same white stone (travertine) and it is a beautiful space in the lovely Californian sunshine. Each building has two floors. I head into the upstairs of the North gallery: “Art before 1700” where there is some great stuff. I wander through the upstairs of that then through the connecting walkways to the East (Art 1600-180 (sic)) and South (Art 1600-1800 – also sic) buildings.
Arriving at the Getty Centre
A nice bit of illuminated manuscript
What's this bloke looking at? The one in the black I mean.
Rather good, I think you'll agree
This was my favourite picture of the day. I can just taste that crisp white wine. I'd say a lightly oaked Chardonnay. The painting is called 'A banquet piece' 'by Peter Claesz. c 1630
There are balconies and courtyards dotted about and its a brilliant space. Really peaceful. Then down into an outside area/garden and finally the downstairs of the West gallery (Art after 1800) which has an exhibition of photos of Cuba which is very good.
The outside is as beautiful to me as the contents.
The highway of doom
The South Promontory cactus garden
There are loads more photos of the art and the centre, and indeed the rest of the day on my Picassa album. Go on, click that link.
Its 5:30 now and I’ve spent my expected 2 hrs. I’m tired, sore and dehydrated so head back off. They have a public cocktail reception on in the Courtyard later on – Dengue fever (who I’ve seen at WOMAD) were doing a sound check when I arrived and sounded great. That would be a great evening – for next time. Inexplicably, many of the buildings have a horrid smell of – well dirty clothes actually. Must be one of the building materials I guess. Other than that, a very fine place to be.
I have an apricot in the car then drive off, top down. The trip is mainly on the freeway and is ok. Its only 15ml or so but in the rush hour takes an hour, passing a hill fire at one point producing a nasty amount of smoke. I commom hazzard here I guess. Getting off the freeway for the hotel I make exactly the same mistake as yesterday and have to take a detour. The layout is just so complicated with about 6 main lanes then 2 lane intersections with 2 lane intersections coming immediately off them: I justcan’t work out what the Tom Tom wants me to do.
Anyway, back by about 6:30. I look for places to eat around last night’s area but decide its easiest just to go back where I was yesterday. I get a taxi and wander round taking a few photos in the twilight.
Super-posh Hotel of the Stars (the tall thing) near the Staples Centre
I decide not to go back to last nights but to ‘Wolfgang Pucs’ as I like the sound of the meatloaf in proscuttio. Its busy and not that friendly. As a true adoptee American, I take great exception to that. No wifi but I can connect to nearby Starbucks. I get a nice IPA. The meatloaf is initially really nice though the taste seems to fade – must be me I guess. Plus no sign of prosciutto. Its a nice meal but at $24 plus $8 for a 16oz beer I feel a bit ripped off.
The taxi driver doesn’t know the hotel and we seem to be going a long way. The hotel owner warned me to be careful of being ripped off and I tell the guy we’ve been round in a circle and it was $7 last night ($10 tonight) and he says OK to 7. Actually I think he was probably just lost but then I am a trusting sort of guy.
I’m feeling a bit disappointed with my meal and the taxi. Do my downloads with some beer and watching Empire Strikes Back (one channel is doing all six Star Wars films on rotation today). Going to hit the vodka and blog now.
I enyoyed my first visit to LA a few weeks back, seeing the tourist traps and chatting to the guides, but this was really just ‘doing the LA tourist thing’. Today’s venues were great in their own right. The Getty Centre will be top of my list should I find myself in LA again and another trip to the Observatory would not go amiss either. Good day!
When I first looked at the distance on this trip (72ml - see bottom left) I thought the GPS must have gone wrong. It was just a little tour! However, following it round using the Google Maps scale it is correct. Just shows how massive a thing the City of Angels really is.
I get breakfast in the nice lounge but eat it sitting outside on the rocking chairs watching the birds feeding on nuts left for them. One, with a red head was an acorn woodpecker the guy told me (Ernie I think). It’s was sunny and lovely now. I’d mis-judged this place yesterday. Though the rooms aren’t great the public areas are and the staff are very nice. Off about 11:30, just as the vintage car club members are arriving. I’d appreciated the later breakfast and check out times. Go to the local Subway but see a Bagel Hut so get a ham and Swiss and a coffee $7. Head off on Highway 101. I’d been expecting to hit the 1 and the 101 isn’t much fun so pull off to get my bearings. Indeed I should have been on the 1 but luckily I am near one of the Missions I’d wanted to visit so reprogram the sat nav for that.
The Mission la Purisima is in a state park. $6 entry. The day is clear with that beautiful white Californian light but not the searing heat of Santa Cruz. The Mission was rebuilt in the early 20th Century, I think after an earthquake, but as faithfully as possible. It has farm lands around the main buildings of the mission. It’s beautiful there and I’m really enjoying it. The buildings are all open (though some have railings stopping you get at stuff) and you just wander round.
...a little info about Mission la Purisima
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The cemetery and bell tower
Just as I’m finishing looking round the buildings one of the rangers comes across. She’d noticed me taking pictures and asked if I’d like to go up the bell tower (not open to the public). That was nice and I even got to ring the bells (one was flat she told me) which are very loud when you are 2 feet away from them.
loud bell
The cemetery from the bell tower
There are lots more pictures on my Picassa gallery and more info about the Mission here. Have a look why don’t you. I had a chat with the friendly ranger on the way back to the car park. She strongly recommended the Santa Barbara mission, also on my list and said the view from the Court building tower (my other stop) was good too. I had some of my bagel (much nicer than a Sub) in the lovely grounds and headed off. Its a beautiful drive through yellow grass-clad hills. As I reach the coast it starts to cloud over and Santa Barbara is like that. Not as bad as yesterday though.
Santa Barbara. Honestly!
I stop at the county court which is a lovely Spanish style building with a tower that you can go up. Its still the working court and various nervous looking people are waiting outside rooms. The volunteer looking after tourists asks where I’m from. He spends a month every winter in Gloucestershire photographing cathedrals. He a bit vitriolic about Coventry cathedral: “if those idiot people in Coventry had an ounce of sense they’d rebuild the old one”. I try to explain that its a war memorial but he’s moved onto our ridiculously thin roads (though he likes the motorways). I don’t think he means any harm and its nice to talk. I go up the tower. In the overcast but quite nice.
The tower of the Santa Barbara court building
In the court house
Santa barbara from the tower. Spot the oil rigs out to sea. The moaning minnies and nimbies wouldn't allow that here. I wonder if they're BP?
This is as close as I got to the Mission
The courthouse gardens
Its about 4. I try to find the Mission to at least have a look but can’t find it so head off. After a bit the sun comes out again and its a nice drive with Santana/McCloughlan and podcasts. Big traffic jams as I reach LA – and I pass Santa Monica beach and its pier that I visited a couple of weeks ago 🙂
I get to Jerry’s Motel on Lucas about 7. Its more downmarket than the website would suggest but the owner is a friendly Indian guy. As I’m checking in Mrs Jerry (for it is their surname) arrives with pizza and I am given some, which is nice 🙂 I get my room which is actually much like last night’s though with a weird bathroom! It takes a little while to get the hang of the TV but I can’t get internet working. I ask the guy. He reboots the access points (I can connect I just can’t get to internet). His laptop works. We spend ages but it won’t work. His daughter helps. All of a sudden it starts to work. Some sort of DNS issue I guess. He offers to take me into town (its getting on for 9 now) and he drops me off right in the centre of downtown where its all happening. I wander round the block and end up in ‘Rock n Fish’ – I want ribs again. I actually have ‘pulled pork’ which is sort of rib meat simmered in bbq sauce. Its nice though a bit textureless. Plus a couple of nice beers. I have my iPad with me and research the Observatory for tomorrow – looks fab. Also start my diary.
I get a taxi about 11. $7. Then Roseanne on TV (not seen that for years) and holiday admin. The owner said to wake him if I wanted ice but that seems mean so I have luke warm (another crap fridge) vodka and orange. About to hit the coke machine. A much better day today 🙂 Bed 2am after too much vodka and cold coke from the machine.
The longest drive of the holiday I think, though it didn't seem like it.
My alarm goes off at 9:20 and I’m down to the lobby at 9:29 as breakfast ends 9:30. He’s packed it all away already. Still mostly asleep and therefore susceptable to rage I politely point out that its 9:29 and I got up specially. He got the cereal, juice and tea out again. Actually, he didn’t seem to mind. I took it to my room which was actually the only option.
I start planning the trip and hear raised voices – the owner and a customer are rowing loudly about something. This and the notice on the door saying anyone in their rooms at 11 will be charged an extra day suggest I should make a quick exit. The lady (wife?) had been very nice and the bloke was nice enough to me so don’t know what that was about. Not may favourite hotel though. Leave about 10:50.
It has been standard practice for it to be cloudy in the morning, which it is, but I’m feeling a bit down – I need coffee. I head back to the Safeway I went to yesterday which is the wrong way but I knowhow to find it and get coffee and a sandwich – theirs look good. I get the ‘Califormia Dreamin’ sandwich which is turkey, bacon and avocado. Safeways are really great places in the US. Much better than anything we have. Like Waitrose but better and without the jodhpurs.
I head off in no hurry as I’m wanting the mist to go before I get to the Big Sur which is supposed to be the best bit of the whole journey. Listening to Ugly Duckling please me a lot. I pull off at Monteray and find some loos by a steam train (I don’t know why). In the car park, I read up on where I’m going. It looks like there should be lots to see so I should just get on with it. At one point it looks as if it is brightening a bit but this comes to nothing. I find an attractive and popular spot on the top of the cliff and eat some of my sandwich. Actually its not that nice (I don’t like avocado – should have paid more attention to the menu). Head off again.
Along the Big Sur......
As I get into the Big Sur proper, I stop at the visitor centre and the ranger helpfully writes down three must sees for me. The road is hugging the coast but cloud cover is total and there is a lot of haze It doesn’t look that special to be honest but I guess the sun makes so much difference (remember my Avenue of the Giants experience). I stop at the first of the spots suggested to me: the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park where there is a waterfall dropping straight onto the beach. The only one in California apparently. Its very small – just the grounds of a former house and associated beach (closed to all) but pretty nice.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park (this is all of it)
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Its odd that the waterfall doesn't make a hollow in the sand, don't you think?
I don’t spot the other two recommended places but wouldn’t have stopped: I’ve sort of given up. As I get towards the end of the Big Sur the disappointment sets in. This was supposed to be the best bit of the holiday. I have been incredibly lucky (especially in Washington, though not Oregon) but it doesn’t really help today.
I get toHearst Castle which had been recommended to me and get a coffee/cookie in the visitors centre. It does look amazing but its a 2 hr guided trip and I just don’t have time. Shame.
Hearst Castle
I head off and pull into a layby by the sea where I eat some more of my sandwich on a rock, but get mobbed by a pack of squirrels.
Ok, I got chased off. They were taking the wheels off the car goddamit.
I continue on, switching to the Chameleons which cheers me a bit and get to my hotel in San Luis Obispo at 5:30 so at least its a shortish day. I found the Peach Tree hotel last night just as I was about to book something much more expensive. It was highly rated, The room was the normal motel style but all of them are at ground level so there is no privacy at all and its quite dark. No fridge for my juice/vodka but there is an aiuce machine (as in all US hotels). I enjoyed the quirkyness of the hotel in Eureka (the cheapest of the holiday) but I’ve gone off these budget hotels now – I need cosseting with swankiness today. My mood isn’t helped.
The Peach Tree Hotel. At least I didn't have to drag my luggage far.
After a bit of a rest I check Tripadvisor for restaurants. I want pizza but its not looking promising. The lady at the desk said there is a farmers market with food stalls in town. I decide to take pot luck and head off still a bit down. The friendly guy at the desk gives me a map.
Its all very busy with stalls mostly selling vast amount of meat products for immediate consumotion. I need a beer and to sit down though so keep going.
The farmers market at San Luis Obispa. Not quite like the one in Swindon.
At the end of the street, I find a Chinese and go in. It seems to be an all you can eat buffet. The menus and tables are sticky and the food isn’t that hot but it nice. I usually eat too much at these things but actually take the opportunity to eat less than I have been served in the restaurants. Comfort food and reasonably cheap. $17 plus tip incl a bottle of beer. When I come to pay I find that I haven’t got my wallet! I put my jeans on this evening as its not that warm and must have forgotten to get my wallet. Luckily, my entire stock of dollars (I keep huge supplies of dollar bills in my pocket for tips) and change adds up to about the right amount. I head off. The walk it a bit too much and I’m knackered plus concerned that I many actually have lost my wallet.
When I get back to the hotel I immediately find my wallet in my shorts! Get a coffee from reception. The hotel is full tonight – many of the hotels I’ve been in have seemed almost empty. The guy says they have a lot of repeat customers incl some clubs – a motor club are coming at the weekend and they have pictures displayed.
I sit on the public verander on one of the rocking chairs and start my downloading. I get the prices of all my hotels so I can see what I’ve spent where to get some perspective on what to pay in San Diego – I need to get somewhere reasonably swanky. Up to now, Hollywood has (not surprisingly) been the most expensive with Seattle being second but easily the swankyist. Garibaldi was third best but easily the best bargain in the swanky league. Eureka was super cheap and quirky in a good way. Petaluma’s French styled boutique was easily the most fun. I seem to have gone a bit too cheap in the last few days – I have the money and its there to have fun with. I’ve been getting the right locations – I just need to go up market a bit.
It really nice on the veranda and I stay there till nearly 10. Although my room is uninspiring the staff and public areas are great and the warmth, the chirping of the cicadas, the rocking chair and a few vodkas finally raises my mood. Then inside for my staple of Family Guy, downloading photos, this diary and now – only 23:50 – time for some blogging.
Tomorrow is a longish drive (200ml) but I don’t think there are any particular stops. Check out is 12 rather than the usual 11 and breakfast ends 10 not 9:30. So I’ll try to get a bit more sleep tonight.
The Big Sur
Note: I’ve uploaded the photos at reduced resolution in this post so if you click on them they should open full size much more quickly.
Wake at 9:45 – too late for breakfast. Have some juice from my supplies and get organised to go to the beach. I’m hoping for a quick trip then back for some catching up/chilling out in the hotel.
The Islander Motel. Possibly not as good as it looks... My room is above and slightly to the left of my car.
Leave around 11 as usual looking for a Subway. I find it next to a Safeway. I get my sub but no coffee so get that from Safeway (Safeway in the US is a fabulous shop – quite a delight to shop in). The sandwiches there look better – remember for tomorrow.
I head off to Scotts Creek and the beach I believe Simon took Serena and I to in 2003. Its about 15 ml back the way I came, a couple of miles past Davenport. I get to the parking spot. The land side where I have a photo of a small lake is clearly right but not sure about the beach. I’ve got my iPad with me and use the 2003 picture to recreate it again now. It was much drier then but clearly the same place.
Small lake at Scott's Creek
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Same place in a somewhat hotter and dryer 2003. Pretty good match, I think you'll agree 🙂
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Google Maps helped with this one
Drink my coffee then head to the beach. Yup, this is defo the right one 🙂 I find pretty much where we were before and eat most of my sandwich but its pretty windy and not really sitting weather. The tide is in and there are none of the weird little jellyfish things we say before (though I do see pelican again).
Interlude: I was all very pleased about successfully tracking down this beach, though you probably won’t undertand, dear reader. You see, to find the location where photos were taken from the olden days (pre geologger) and the prehistoric days (film camera) I have to compare what is in them to what I can see on Google maps. Once I have done this I just drag the photo onto the correct place on the map in Google Picassa, which writes the geo location to the file. Then I’ll always be able to see where it was taken. This is fine for a known location like say a landmark or monument, but when you are just looking at pictures of a beach somewhere between Half Moon bay and Santa Cruz that you visited 8 years previously, it can be hard to track down the actual location. Obsessive it might sound, but I spent ages finding this location using a combination of Google Map’s satellite view and Bing Maps orthogonal birds-eyel view. I edged my way up and down the coast comparing what I could see on the photo with what I could see on the maps. Google maps is very detailed but it is a straight down view and it takes some practice to be able to appreciate how the subject of your (horizontal) photo would look on the ariel view in Google maps. Bing Map’s birds-eye view makes it easier but these views are far less detailed so you need large features to find them. Google Earth allows you to choose the angle of view where its mapping is detailed enough but its difficult to navigate. For the photo above it was the shape of the hills in the background that did it with the help of Google Earth view in Google maps. For the photo below the clues were the shape of the cliffs and the shape of the road and how it cut into the hill. Using this process, it took me 7 hours to track down this location from the 2003 photos. This was back in February. This was the hardest one yet. It was worth it to be able to make a return visit though.
Looking towards the beach. The lake is to the right of this picture.
The Beach at Scott's Creek 2011
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The beach in those grainy old film camera days
I wander along the beach to the end and take lots of photos. It is a very nice beach and the ocean is dramatic.
A nice bit of surf
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Though surf was more hardcore in 2003
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and some rock caves
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These birds were surprised that it seemed to be snowing. Upwards.
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I liked the contrast with the sand at the edge of the creek
Finally back and head off. I see a place by the road selling fresh cherries and stop. They are out of cherries but get 10 local apricots for $4.
Mmmm. Healthy
I take a diversion to Bonny Doon winery where we also went. Actually that’s the place not the winery. I recognise it when I get there and it is open but there is no one around. I take a picture to remind myself. The wine all seems very expensive. Someone comes out as I’m leaving and I chat briefly and make my excuses.
Boony Doon winery. Reassuringly expensive.
Back and stop at Safeway to get juice and vodka and a bottle of Californian white — I’m in the mood for wine now, plus a coffee. Its after 3 when I get back. As usual, stuff is taking much longer than expected but I am having a great time. Have a couple of apricots which are fabulous.
I head off to look at Santa Cruz. Pacific Ave seems to be the place where its all happening, along with the Boardwalk. I head to the former looking for the shops we visited in 2003, hoping for clues as to the cafe we went to that day. No luck though it defo seems the right sort of area. Continue down to the Boardwalk (basically the promenade) and walk down it to its ‘famous’ fun fare. It is very good actually though I’m not tempted by any of the scary rides which appeared to be populated entirely by screaming girls. To be fair, at least the girls had the guts to go on them in the first place. Perhaps girls like to scream?
Scary rides
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This sort of spring-loaded rocket launcher thing looked particularly inhuman
Santa Cruz beach
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Heading back into town
Then back up Pacific aiming to loop round and back to the hotel. Its all looking familiar but I can’t find what I want. I stop at the end for a sit down before heading back. The area looks familiar and I head down a road and come to a place that does look right. Big wooden roofed barn sort of thing, big plant, outside terrace. Hmmm. Yes this is certainly it. It seems to be some sort of Hawaiian eatery (Pono). They have no coffee so I get a local beer and sit down. It has internet. The food seems to be some sort of concession within a bar called Cypress Lounge. This was established 2007 so its a different company but clearly the same place. Have my beer and take photos then head off. I have a quick look to see if I can find where my pictures from 2003 were taken which I quickly do – finding a big frog that was on one of them. Very happy to solve this last holiday mystery, I head back. They serve food till 9 so maybe I’ll go back to eat tonight.
Cyprus bar and Pono Hawaiian food. The place, though not the venue we visited in 2003. I never managed to geo-find this until this chance visit.
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..and from the outside
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Simon's photo of Serena with a mysterious frog in 2003
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...there he is, look
Its nearly 7 when I get back so my plan of chilling out hasn’t worked. Great day though. I’d been planning ribs tonight and Tripadvisors fave place did ribs. I’d been to Pono/Cyprus already so should try something new. I head off about 8 for Hula’s grill for my ribs. As is usual in these places, one girl shows me to a seat, another, v friendly one, (Leiani) takes my order, a bloke brings me my order and Leiani makes sure I’m OK. In the UK, all this would be done by one person. I guess this is why Tripadvisor reviewers get so agitated if they get poor service in a place. Its not an essential part of the meal – its an extra you’re paying for with your 20% tips so it might as well be good.
The ribs are great but the beer average. Back by 9:30. I really need to catch up. Do my downloading, try to find a hotel for tomorrow, find a great one, and try to find something for LA. There doesn’t seem to be anything in downtown but I realise I don’t need to be anywhere in particular in LA as I have a car this time. Find a place not to far off but they ‘get back to you’ about reservations so I can’t confirm yet. Now I must get my diary done for yesterday and today. And here I am at 1am. With a bit of luck I can get a blog post out (one is part done). Really enjoying my Californian Sauvignon Blanc (c $12). Bed around 2am as usual. A good day.
A leisurely 50ml today
Up and go down to brew myself some fresh coffee with the filters they left out. Very nice it is too, as is the banana cake. Have the coffee in my room then pack up. Go round the hotel taking more photos and have another coffee in the ‘cafe’. What a brilliant place.
More of the Metro Hotel
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Mirrors double the length of this hall
...and lighten this corner
...the window being reflected is itself internal, its room lit by a skylight
I head off, getting a Subway in town then drive round a bit. It really does seem to be a lovely place. Then head towards Mt Tamalpais. I came here in 1996 with Sarah and have remembered it ever since as a lovely place. This is another of places I have visited in the wider San Francisco area that I am seeking out with a view to re-experience them and also to try to re-take photos taken at the time (see Point Reyes/Drakes Bay in my previous post). I spent quite a bit of time before I came on holiday geotagging the older photos to find out exactly where they were taken so I would have a chance of doing this.
I find a spot in San Rafael (which also looks quite nice) to get a coffee as Subway didn’t have any. As I’m not going to a street address, I have to programme the Tom Tom with coordinates from Google Maps and it takes me to some ranger station. I ask and I’m only one turning out. The road heads into the hills through the forests and is a fabulous drive. I’m a little worried that this is really the way but the road is heading up and all of a sudden I get an amazing panorama of San Francisco.
The Richmond-San Rafael Bridge in 2011...
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...and in 1996. When life was yellower
Note how the Ocean side of the bay is swathed in cloud. Typical San Francisco. (Remember to click on the pictures to make them bigger.)
A mile or so further I reach the parking point (Mt Tam East peak) that I was looking for. Its an $8 fee and I head off looking for where Sarah and I went in 1996 – which was the top of a hill I’m sure. The trail (0.9ml) goes anti-clockwise round the summit so I hope there will be a way up. The views are brilliant: I’ve been very lucky with the weather.
San Francisco Bay
A foggy Golden Gate Bridge
About half way round is a path heading out to a spur which might be what I’m looking for. Parts of it are hard work and by the time I’m back on the trail I’m completely knackered.
Towards the Pacific Coast
I have a sit down for a bit to catch my breath. Then continue round, still no path, and all of a sudden I’m back at the start (via a brief detour up a small path that might but wasn’t what I wanted). Just as I get back to the beginning I see the path to the top. It was just left of where I started. Doh. Its a 0.3ml boardwalk (steps) and then goes back to a rocky path. I take it steady but its knackering and really hot. Eventually, exhausted, I get to the station at the top. Its only 220m higher elevation than the bottom of the trail but, hey, its hot.
Up the path to the summit of Mt Tam
Same path, same place, 15yr earlier (compare the two trees on the left with those in the previous photo. This one is taken from a slightly different angle). That's Sarah up ahead.
The path is definitely the right one but the view isn’t right – there is no station in my photos. There are loads of butterflies distinctively flitting about with each other – just like there were in 1996 – I’ve not seen them anywhere else. As in 1996, I tried and failed to photograph them: they are just too fast moving. I clamber round the side of the station anticlockwise but still not right. There is another spur going off and I clamber down to this. Its really hard going and not looking promising and eventually I give up. As I turn back I see some people on a rock that is almost certainly what I want – just left on the station from where I went. Doh! Again! I’m absolutely exhausted now, sweating profusely and getting low on water but get up to the point and I’m happy that this is what I want. Take lots of photos and have a sit down.
Spectacular hat-hair
San Francisco from the top of Mt Tamalpais
Looking inland. Its hot in there!
The San Rafael Bridge again
A gulp of water and then down. Luckily, going down turns out to be pretty easy and soon I’m back.
Knackered and dehydrated, I get more water and coke from the machine (there is a Coke machine but the visitor centre is closed). Its nearly 4 and I’ve not had my lunch. Have a few bites but its really hot so drink some coke and head off. The Tom Tom still has no idea where I am so I follow the signs to San Francisco. Eventually it works out where I am and takes me to Horseshoe Bay, though I make a detour to have a quick look at Sausolito.
Horseshoe Bay, below the North side of the Golden Gate Bridge is a great place for a different view though is very windy.
The Golden Gate Bridge from Horseshoe Bay
San Francisco from Horseshoe Bay
I eat most of the rest of my lunch (including an unfeasibly hot chilli that makes me gag) and head off for my next stop – Treasure Island. The Tom Tom is going to take me via part of Lombard St (the famous super wiggly one) and I’m going to detour down the wiggly bit. As I leave the toll of the Golden gate ($6) the layout is confusing due to road works and I end up taking the wrong road, into the Presidio I think. The Tom Tom knows the way but if I don’t follow the original plan I’ll never get to Lombard St so spend some time trying to get back to the bridge. I end up under the main road so try to get to the fort under the bridge but the road seems to be closed. Eventually I make it back to the bridge and then its easy finding Lombard St. I head slowly down that, enjoying the admiring/envious onlookers and taking a video, then some great views, down Columbus, passing the Stinking Rose/Vesuvios, and into the financial district, past the Transamerica Building. Its a big traffic jam here but it lets me take photos. Very happy with this.
Places I like in San Francisco 1. Columbus and the Transamerica Building
Places I like in San Francisco 2 The Stinking Rose garlic restaurant
Places I like in San Francisco 3. Vesuvio Bar
Places I like in San Francisco 4. Transamerica and the former San Francisco Brewing Co
Places I like in San Francisco 5. The Financial District
Its a really big traffic jam to get onto the Bay Bridge. Once on it, its a couple of miles to the Treasure Island turn off. The place was built for the Golden Gate International Exposition in 1939 but is now really run down and mostly boarded up. It didn’t look like a place to get out of your car, if you know what I mean. There are some great views of SF and the new build of the Bay Bridge though. On the far side someone is burning up the strip in a red Camero like I had last year. We exchange waves. I get back in the car and quickly make an exit.
San Francisco from Treasure Island
Cool sculpture
I want to go to the other island, Yuerba Buena but miss the turning and am back on the bridge. Poo. Too late to try again.
Next stop is Twin Peaks. Again I only know the rough street location for the Tom Tom and once I get to it I’m not where I need to be. I drive around trying to find it. I’m very low on petrol now (again) and getting worried. Eventually I find Twin Peaks. Its really windy up there but some nice views. Next is Haight Ashbury passing some of the spots I knew well. Fun 🙂
Places I like in San Francisco 6. Twin Peaks and the view from it.
Towards the park now and trying to find petrol. I drive quite a bit getting increasingly worried. I ask someone who suggests Geary St so try that but no luck. There was one in Mission I saw on the way up and I know where that is so I head back, via the centre of town.
Places I like in San Francisco 7. City Hall
Find it and fill up. I’m cold, hungry and a bit stressed now (I have a long way to go and didn’t want a pertol-less car to deal with). I use the Tom Tom to get me back to Haight then I know the way to the park. I can’t find the way through the middle so mostly skirt the edges. Its too late to faff about. Then briefly to the point on the hill above the coast end of the park for some pictures (its a great view I used in 2008). There is a full moon out and its lovely with the sun going down.
Places I like in San Francisco 8. The Pacific Coast at Golden Gate Park
...
It really is time to head to Santa Cruz now. Its nearly 9pm and I’ve been stealing myself for what time I’ll arrive. The Tom Tom says 10:30 so not too bad considering the fun I’ve had.
...with just the moonlight to guide me (and a Tom Tom).
I follow the road down but a stretch just down is closed and the detour is slow. Then the Tom Tom tries to take me inland. I ignore it and think I’m OK when I get on the highway signposted to Santa Cruz. After a bit it tells me to get off. I’d not been paying attention so may have missed something and do what it says. I’m not sure what is happening so pull into a garage. Its trying to take me inland. I re-programme it and head off. Unfortunately its now saying 2 hrs and I’ve probably wasted 30 mins.
After a bit the route takes me off the freeway onto a winding road. Its dark now so I’m not too happy as I really don’t want to be driving on a winding road at night in the US (or anywhere else for that matter). However, after I get to Half Moon Bay, it straightens out along the coast. There is little traffic and the road is good so I make good time. I put happy music (Caravan) on and its actually quite nice. I take a few photos of the moon on the water around Davenport.
A moonlit ocean at Davenport
I’ve made good time and my Tom Tom gets me to the Islander Motel Santa Cruz at 10:20. I’m pretty tired and hot and sweaty from the day. I check in. Its the same layout as most of the Motels with a room accessed from a walkway in Best Western Style. Not quite as good as some but OK. Its too late to go out so I rush off to the 7 Eleven just up the road and get some juice, a breakfast hot dog and some strange meaty things in some sort of pastry. Eat them with a vodka then some more drinks while I download my photos and geologs. Family Guy and Southpark are available so I’m entertained while i unwind. No time for blogs.
Just a small one then.
Bed 2am
I’d been a bit disappointed when I got back to California, it being the final State on my trip but todays amazing drives and views (esp Mt Tam) remind me why I love California. Possibly the best day of the holiday so far. Fabulous.
202ml plus a mountain
I could have left earlier today but the sea mist was clouding everything over so I left as usual at 11.
Super 8 Motel-land. My room is the top right one.
Getting petrol (again – I’m getting 20.7mpg!) I head off. Its quite attractive with the thin mist saturating the colours but after a while (about midday) it lifts. Which is an improvement.
Great coast. At Elk.
Great tree!
I find a lovely layby overlooking the coast to eat the rest of yesterday’s sandwich and, now with the roof down, follow Highway 1 down some beautiful coastline and also some inland areas, lower lying and wooded, but with different types of trees again, and also farm land with cattle.
Great beach
...
Its about 150 ml to Port Reyes and another fabulous drive. The Camero is great for this winding mid speed stuff.
I take a wrong turning and end up in Drakes Bay beach which was to be my stop after this. Its nearly 4pm. As I’m getting stuff out of the car the wind catches the already fully open door and wrenches it further, hitting the car next to it making a small but ugly dent. What to do? I go for my walk on the beach, the mood now completely lost. I can’t quite recreate the photo from 1999 when I was last here as the tide is in but I get near.
Drakes Bay beach 2011...
..and in 1999. With a silly filter. I prefer it this way.
Its a very nice beach although its a bit misty (as it was in 1999). I head back, deciding to get a coffee and read the Budget T&Cs about my 3rd party damage insurance. The cafe closed at 4 (most tourist stuff has short hours – but I guess its not quite peak season) so I read in the car, being very careful with the door getting in. I should be covered and write a note saying what has happened and asking the owner to contact Budget. I hang around a bit but the owners don’t come back so leave it under the windscreen wiper.
Then off to the lighthouse. The mist is blowing across the headland and so the road as I get near.
Windy
The lighthouse closed at 4:30 (its now 5) – shame I didn’t get here first as planned but you can walk up the road as far as the steps and to the viewing platform just before the steps. There are apparently 300 of them so I would have struggled anyway.
300 steps (closed for the evening) down to the lighthouse
Point Reyes Lighthouse
Scary red lichen
Its really nice there though the visibility is not good. Apparently its one of the windiest places on the Pacific coast. There are still quite a few people about. Take lots of pictures and then back. According to the Tom Tom its going to take 1h30m to go 30ml. Its takes so long to get anywhere here: its like being in Ireland. As I get out of the headland the weather becomes lovely again – rolling hills and reservoirs in the beautiful, golden, early evening light. Brilliant.
Back in the sun
I get to the hotel – the Metro Motel and Cafe in Petaluma – about 7. Its a very weird place indeed with weird things everywhere. I can’t really describe it. The slightly odd chap on the desk shows me what’s what and takes me to my room which is a lovely corner one. The hotel has a Parisian theme (the owner’s wife is Parisian) and everything is decked out most brilliantly with piles of books and artefacts scattered around and mirrors used to make things look bigger. Fantastic.
Metro Hotel Petaluma. Fabulously Parisian.
Mmmm. Period.
The Metro Hotel Petaluma
They have some restaurant recommendations and I find a couple of my own too and head out.
Hotel California anyone?
The place they suggested was closed for holidays. The number one Tripadvisor place looked good if expensive but I fancied Mexican and went to ‘Velasco’s of the North’. Though it said they closed at 9 the doors were closed (8:45): the owner saw me and explained that they were closing early to clean the carpet but accommodated me anyway. I had their special – a chicken dish in a mild tomato sauce on rice plus refried beans, sour cream flour tortillis etc. It was lovely though I couldn’t eat it all. I had a pint of Lagunitas (local brewery) IPA which was very good – finally some good beer.
I was very full and it was 9:30 but I had planned to go to Taps bar where they have more from Lagunitas. I went for it and had some very nice 8% double IPA. (Double IPA – what – they take it to India twice or something?) Super flowery nose and rich hoppy taste. Not for the faint hearted but very nice. I read the guide book seeing what I’d be seeing over the next couple of days. I then wandered slowly back. Petaluma was planned really just somewhere to stop but it turned out to be a lovely place. Quiet and friendly and attractive, without (at least in this part) that ugly strip city that most towns here seem to have. It reminded me a bit of Rotorua – not only in actual feel, but also because it was an unexpected delight and because my lodgings were so great. Very happy with my hotel and town choice. Back for my normal admin jobs. A really great day.
210 ml today
Woke 9:30. Have coffee and juice, plan the trip and leave about 11:15. It was a great little place. Not swanky but certainly quirky and for $60 (£37) a huge bargain.
The Town House Motel Eureka. As wacky as it is cheap.
I drive round the town a bit but it is all over cloudy. The parts outside the attractive ‘historic centre’ are typical, ugly ‘strip town’. I didn’t come across the Subway that I was looking for so leave town badly needing coffee. I’ve passed the 1000ml mark, am in my final state, and over half way through the holiday: I am feeling a bit lost and that the holiday maybe wasn’t living up to expectations. The weather wasn’t supposed to be like this.
First stop is Scotia. Built and entirely owned by the Pacific Logging Co. The guidebook said that the museum gave free tickets for tours of the worlds largest redwood mill so this was to be this mornings entertainment. The museum was closed for lunch.
Scotia Lumber Museum
I asked a passing security guard who told me that the mill had been shut down and replaced by something much smaller which didn’t do tours. The town was now owned by the company who own Macys etc. Oh. He directs me to a store (Hobys) where there will be ‘rest rooms’. This does fresh made sandwiches and drink so I get a pastrami on soda bread and a coffee. By the time I come out the sky has gone from 100% cloud when I entered the town to 90% clear. The small bit of exercise has shifted my malaise and my mood has flipped dramatically from “this isn’t what I was expecting” to “this is all good’. Funny what the sun can do!
Soon after leaving Scotia I turn off the 101 onto the “Avenue of the Giants” – the older road which snakes through the Redwoods, some of which are ‘first growth’ – ie thousands of years old, rather than less than a 100, which most are (they cut most of the originals down). There is an auto tour and I stop to pick up a leaflet and put the top down. Its beautiful in the dappled sunlight through the huge trees. I only find two of the auto stops but do find a quiet layby to stop and eat my sandwich free from the noisy motorbikes that are everywhere. Its beautiful and serene and the sandwich is the best I’ve had. Simple pleasures 🙂
Fabulous Giant Redwoods. This is a memory that will stay with me.
🙂
Twisty big tree.
I carry on down and see a sign for a drive through tree – not that one I want but I stop to check my bearings. I’ve actually missed the huge Dyerville giant tree and, breaking my normal rules (never go back. But its such a nice drive), head back 10 miles or so to pick this up. Its part of a 1/2 mile walk for which I pick up a pamphlet. The forest is beautiful though, to be honest, its difficult to get the measure of the size of the trees (some over 300′) from the ground. I spend an enjoyable 45mins or so there, including seeing the huge, now fallen (in 1991) Dyerville which reminds me variously of a whale and a starship.
Huge, out of focus, fallen tree. Thought to be one of the biggest in the world until it fell in 1991. See person to the right for scale.
Lovely woods.
Then back and drive to the end of the avenue and back onto the 101. My next stop (probably 30ml) is Legett for the drive through tree. Its $5 and when I get to it it seems that you can’t drive through it at all – its full of people. I park up a but see that actually you can drive, you just have to push the pedestrians out the way, so double back. An enthusiastic black family guide me through (Its a tight squeeze and I do bump one mirror). I have a chat with one of the mums – they are from Louisiana. She thought I was Australian as well and takes some pictures for me.
At the drive-through tree. I did.
Now onto Highway 1 which twists and turns through another forest (not redwoods). I let a pickup pass me but then, with someone to follow, sit behind him and have a fabulous drive through the twists and turns. Not particularly fast – under 50 mainly – but the Camero does slow down, speed up and go round corners in a very orderly fashion and this is the drive of the holiday. Its been up to 80 degrees (as measured by the car today). When the road exits the forest onto the coast it drops back to high 60s again. The coast is also very atractive and I stick ZZ Top on and continue my fun drive (I was enjoying Captain Beefheart in the Redwoods).
Back at the coast
I get to my hotel – the Super 8 on Main St Fort Bragg – about 5:50 – an hour earlier than yesterday which was an hour before the day before so things are moving in the right direction. Its much the same internal layout as yesterday. Very slightly up market and still a good price ($85 – £52)
I wander down to Safeways to get more vodka and juice, then find places to eat. There are a bunch down the road and I head off 7:30 ish. It turns out to be a steep road down to the harbour. I look around. One is open (first choice on Tripadvisor but has no menu on view) another is closed, another closing (and looks very expensive). Can’t find the rest.
I head back to the first choice – Carin’s Italian Seafood Grotto. A very friendly guy greets me, pats me on the back, passing me over to his gorgeous daughter (Karen I think) who takes me to my table and get me a drink – I get the Red Seal Ale from the Fort Bragg brewery: North Coast Brewing Co. Its OK only. She LOVES my accent 🙂 but guesses Irish! I decide on linguine alfredo but the guy who comes to take my order strongly suggests the clam, prawn and scallop something (in a tomato sauce). Apparently ‘Mama’ made it fresh today. It turns out that Carin is Mama who has been running the place for 60 years. The guy who greeted me and the guy who took my oder are her sons. Karen (or maybe Kate) is her grand daughter. Another lady is on hand too who may be another daughter. I’mnot sure about the clams but go with the local’s suggestion. This comes with a chowder starter which is nice though needs seasoning . The main course is a huge dish. Again, it needs seasoning and is guite good – the prawns are great, the clams fine. The scallops, as always are tasteless and lacking any texture but are in a great light batter. I can’t eat it all.
I strike up a bit of a conversation with Karen and also another customer about the cannabis vote they had recently (see the Venice Beach blog) . Bizarrely, since taking my order Karen has become heavily pregnant. She tells the other customer that she is 5mths pregnant and has two girls already. She’s 27. The guy who took my order asks if I’ve ordered and if I’ve had it (he seems mad or drunk but very friendly) and offers me free coffee which never comes . At about 9:30 I decide I need to leave. Its $37 with tip $45 (£27.50). Great family service and nice food too. I’ve eaten too much though.
Walk back up the hill. I walk to fast and have to stop sitting on a wall panting and feeling quite ill. Get my breath back and to the hotel. Lovely clear night. There is still a glow on the horizon (I need to look up the difference in dusk between N Washington and S California). I need to book tomorrow’s hotel. I’m spending far too much time on this planning but get what looks like a great place and also book two nights in Santa Cruz.
Then to the usual uploading of the days photos and logs.
After a un-promising start this turns out to be one of (probably the) highlights of the holiday so far and certainly the best drive 🙂 Those redwoods – fabulous!
167ml. A good distance. And away from the coast to excellent effect.
Wake 9:15 for 9:30 end of breakfast. Feeling pretty rough – too much vodka. Get down and have my usual bran with lots of milk plus two juices and two teas. They have the usual scrambled egg, sausages etc but I couldn’t face that if I wanted it.
Back upstairs, finish packing an leave about 10:30. Go to Subway for my usual then head back across the bridge to the Dunes State park. I drive around finding a few places with good vistas, including a quick stop at the coast. The sun is starting to come out and on my way back from the furthest point the sun is out and I pull to a stop at a beautiful area of ponds and trees. Get some photos and things are already looking up.
another Oregon bridge!
...and the sun comes out! This view was was stunning. I'm very disappointed with the photo. Trust me, it was stunning.
Stop a bit further at a lookout point on a little hill and have some of my sandwich. Take some photos and head off encouraged after yesterdays gloomy weather.
That bridge again.
The road is away from the coast but its beautiful woods so I’m not worried. I even take the hood down. I get into Port Orford and see an ‘Ocean View’ sign on the road. Up there and wow – huge sea scape with these rock stacks all over. More viewing points at the bottom of town where I eat the rest of my sandwich. From then on the trip through Oregon is mostly on the coast and I have to stop myself stopping everywhere. Beautiful.
Oregon's lovely beaches
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And all of a sudden I’m in California. You have to stop at a border crossing type thing but they just ask you if you have any fresh produce. Immediately the scenery changes to low flat open country. I guess its some sort of delta or something. I’m bizarrely feeling a bit disappointed to be in California – Washington and Oregon were totally new to me but this is known territory – except it isn’t – I only know the SF area and east to Modesto and Yosemite. Anyway, after a bit, it gets woody again – though Redwoods, not spruce, and very hilly. Its been hotter today – the car is measuring 58-62F – up in Washington it was 56ish. However, its cold with the top down and as I get into California the speed limit raises from 55 to 65. It gets very cold. I come out of the woods. Its still nice but more ordinary. All of a sudden there is a beep and there is a low fuel warning. The gauge shows empty but surely there must be a gallon? I don’t know what is ahead so start driving very carefully. Luckily, the next town turns out to be 8ml away and fuel is obtained.
I get to the Eureka Town House Motel – very highly regarded by TripAdvisor but only $60 (£37). Its actually as fine as it is odd. All the rooms look inwards, superficially like a tiny downmarket version of the place I stayed in Turkey for the eclipse – but no outward windows. It has all it needs though. The owner is very jolly and helpful.
The Eureka Town House Motel. Weird.
I check Tripadvisor (I want pizza) and choose Hurricane Kate’s which is only a few blocks away. The pepperoni pizza is preceded by some nice bread and roasted garlic plus a great Redwood IPA. The pizza is very nice.
I have a quick walk round the block. This is the ‘historic old town’ and is actually very nice. I go to Lost Coast Brewery tap and have a pint of their less interesting IPA. I’m very full and leave as soon as I can finish. There is a store almost next to the hotel and I get some juice and beer. The black guy on the counter loves my accent – he’s been watching the royal wedding which is still being shown on rotation over here! All his teeth are capped and connected together with gold. I compliment him on them and he on my accent. Wacky. Nice bloke though.
Tomorrow’s trip looks like it could have some good stuff on it. Get my geolog, photo uploading and diary diary done and make a start on anothe blog entry. Bed 2am.
Today was a great day. The dunes area is weird and excellent. The coastline was fabulous and forests lovely and a great drive (the Camero is good on windey roads).
I think this was the longest drive of the holiday.
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