Up and go down to brew myself some fresh coffee with the filters they left out. Very nice it is too, as is the banana cake. Have the coffee in my room then pack up. Go round the hotel taking more photos and have another coffee in the ‘cafe’. What a brilliant place.
More of the Metro Hotel
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Mirrors double the length of this hall
...and lighten this corner
...the window being reflected is itself internal, its room lit by a skylight
I head off, getting a Subway in town then drive round a bit. It really does seem to be a lovely place. Then head towards Mt Tamalpais. I came here in 1996 with Sarah and have remembered it ever since as a lovely place. This is another of places I have visited in the wider San Francisco area that I am seeking out with a view to re-experience them and also to try to re-take photos taken at the time (see Point Reyes/Drakes Bay in my previous post). I spent quite a bit of time before I came on holiday geotagging the older photos to find out exactly where they were taken so I would have a chance of doing this.
I find a spot in San Rafael (which also looks quite nice) to get a coffee as Subway didn’t have any. As I’m not going to a street address, I have to programme the Tom Tom with coordinates from Google Maps and it takes me to some ranger station. I ask and I’m only one turning out. The road heads into the hills through the forests and is a fabulous drive. I’m a little worried that this is really the way but the road is heading up and all of a sudden I get an amazing panorama of San Francisco.
The Richmond-San Rafael Bridge in 2011...
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...and in 1996. When life was yellower
Note how the Ocean side of the bay is swathed in cloud. Typical San Francisco. (Remember to click on the pictures to make them bigger.)
A mile or so further I reach the parking point (Mt Tam East peak) that I was looking for. Its an $8 fee and I head off looking for where Sarah and I went in 1996 – which was the top of a hill I’m sure. The trail (0.9ml) goes anti-clockwise round the summit so I hope there will be a way up. The views are brilliant: I’ve been very lucky with the weather.
San Francisco Bay
A foggy Golden Gate Bridge
About half way round is a path heading out to a spur which might be what I’m looking for. Parts of it are hard work and by the time I’m back on the trail I’m completely knackered.
Towards the Pacific Coast
I have a sit down for a bit to catch my breath. Then continue round, still no path, and all of a sudden I’m back at the start (via a brief detour up a small path that might but wasn’t what I wanted). Just as I get back to the beginning I see the path to the top. It was just left of where I started. Doh. Its a 0.3ml boardwalk (steps) and then goes back to a rocky path. I take it steady but its knackering and really hot. Eventually, exhausted, I get to the station at the top. Its only 220m higher elevation than the bottom of the trail but, hey, its hot.
Up the path to the summit of Mt Tam
Same path, same place, 15yr earlier (compare the two trees on the left with those in the previous photo. This one is taken from a slightly different angle). That's Sarah up ahead.
The path is definitely the right one but the view isn’t right – there is no station in my photos. There are loads of butterflies distinctively flitting about with each other – just like there were in 1996 – I’ve not seen them anywhere else. As in 1996, I tried and failed to photograph them: they are just too fast moving. I clamber round the side of the station anticlockwise but still not right. There is another spur going off and I clamber down to this. Its really hard going and not looking promising and eventually I give up. As I turn back I see some people on a rock that is almost certainly what I want – just left on the station from where I went. Doh! Again! I’m absolutely exhausted now, sweating profusely and getting low on water but get up to the point and I’m happy that this is what I want. Take lots of photos and have a sit down.
Spectacular hat-hair
San Francisco from the top of Mt Tamalpais
Looking inland. Its hot in there!
The San Rafael Bridge again
A gulp of water and then down. Luckily, going down turns out to be pretty easy and soon I’m back.
Knackered and dehydrated, I get more water and coke from the machine (there is a Coke machine but the visitor centre is closed). Its nearly 4 and I’ve not had my lunch. Have a few bites but its really hot so drink some coke and head off. The Tom Tom still has no idea where I am so I follow the signs to San Francisco. Eventually it works out where I am and takes me to Horseshoe Bay, though I make a detour to have a quick look at Sausolito.
Horseshoe Bay, below the North side of the Golden Gate Bridge is a great place for a different view though is very windy.
The Golden Gate Bridge from Horseshoe Bay
San Francisco from Horseshoe Bay
I eat most of the rest of my lunch (including an unfeasibly hot chilli that makes me gag) and head off for my next stop – Treasure Island. The Tom Tom is going to take me via part of Lombard St (the famous super wiggly one) and I’m going to detour down the wiggly bit. As I leave the toll of the Golden gate ($6) the layout is confusing due to road works and I end up taking the wrong road, into the Presidio I think. The Tom Tom knows the way but if I don’t follow the original plan I’ll never get to Lombard St so spend some time trying to get back to the bridge. I end up under the main road so try to get to the fort under the bridge but the road seems to be closed. Eventually I make it back to the bridge and then its easy finding Lombard St. I head slowly down that, enjoying the admiring/envious onlookers and taking a video, then some great views, down Columbus, passing the Stinking Rose/Vesuvios, and into the financial district, past the Transamerica Building. Its a big traffic jam here but it lets me take photos. Very happy with this.
Places I like in San Francisco 1. Columbus and the Transamerica Building
Places I like in San Francisco 2 The Stinking Rose garlic restaurant
Places I like in San Francisco 3. Vesuvio Bar
Places I like in San Francisco 4. Transamerica and the former San Francisco Brewing Co
Places I like in San Francisco 5. The Financial District
Its a really big traffic jam to get onto the Bay Bridge. Once on it, its a couple of miles to the Treasure Island turn off. The place was built for the Golden Gate International Exposition in 1939 but is now really run down and mostly boarded up. It didn’t look like a place to get out of your car, if you know what I mean. There are some great views of SF and the new build of the Bay Bridge though. On the far side someone is burning up the strip in a red Camero like I had last year. We exchange waves. I get back in the car and quickly make an exit.
San Francisco from Treasure Island
Cool sculpture
I want to go to the other island, Yuerba Buena but miss the turning and am back on the bridge. Poo. Too late to try again.
Next stop is Twin Peaks. Again I only know the rough street location for the Tom Tom and once I get to it I’m not where I need to be. I drive around trying to find it. I’m very low on petrol now (again) and getting worried. Eventually I find Twin Peaks. Its really windy up there but some nice views. Next is Haight Ashbury passing some of the spots I knew well. Fun 🙂
Places I like in San Francisco 6. Twin Peaks and the view from it.
Towards the park now and trying to find petrol. I drive quite a bit getting increasingly worried. I ask someone who suggests Geary St so try that but no luck. There was one in Mission I saw on the way up and I know where that is so I head back, via the centre of town.
Places I like in San Francisco 7. City Hall
Find it and fill up. I’m cold, hungry and a bit stressed now (I have a long way to go and didn’t want a pertol-less car to deal with). I use the Tom Tom to get me back to Haight then I know the way to the park. I can’t find the way through the middle so mostly skirt the edges. Its too late to faff about. Then briefly to the point on the hill above the coast end of the park for some pictures (its a great view I used in 2008). There is a full moon out and its lovely with the sun going down.
Places I like in San Francisco 8. The Pacific Coast at Golden Gate Park
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It really is time to head to Santa Cruz now. Its nearly 9pm and I’ve been stealing myself for what time I’ll arrive. The Tom Tom says 10:30 so not too bad considering the fun I’ve had.
...with just the moonlight to guide me (and a Tom Tom).
I follow the road down but a stretch just down is closed and the detour is slow. Then the Tom Tom tries to take me inland. I ignore it and think I’m OK when I get on the highway signposted to Santa Cruz. After a bit it tells me to get off. I’d not been paying attention so may have missed something and do what it says. I’m not sure what is happening so pull into a garage. Its trying to take me inland. I re-programme it and head off. Unfortunately its now saying 2 hrs and I’ve probably wasted 30 mins.
After a bit the route takes me off the freeway onto a winding road. Its dark now so I’m not too happy as I really don’t want to be driving on a winding road at night in the US (or anywhere else for that matter). However, after I get to Half Moon Bay, it straightens out along the coast. There is little traffic and the road is good so I make good time. I put happy music (Caravan) on and its actually quite nice. I take a few photos of the moon on the water around Davenport.
A moonlit ocean at Davenport
I’ve made good time and my Tom Tom gets me to the Islander Motel Santa Cruz at 10:20. I’m pretty tired and hot and sweaty from the day. I check in. Its the same layout as most of the Motels with a room accessed from a walkway in Best Western Style. Not quite as good as some but OK. Its too late to go out so I rush off to the 7 Eleven just up the road and get some juice, a breakfast hot dog and some strange meaty things in some sort of pastry. Eat them with a vodka then some more drinks while I download my photos and geologs. Family Guy and Southpark are available so I’m entertained while i unwind. No time for blogs.
Just a small one then.
Bed 2am
I’d been a bit disappointed when I got back to California, it being the final State on my trip but todays amazing drives and views (esp Mt Tam) remind me why I love California. Possibly the best day of the holiday so far. Fabulous.
202ml plus a mountain
Posted in Holidays